Defending The Tom Ford Era

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They say that history is written by the victors.  Well, sometimes it also gets partially written by poor saps in conquered countries, who happen to write something that sticks around a bit.  You see – that’s one of the great things about the Great Mystery.  You can lie about Wounded Knee all you want to for a century, but it only takes one picture that gets out on the net, a century or so later, or one disagreeing viewpoint to see the light in a more honest time, for all the victorious writings to get flushed down the Great Toilet of Truth.  The universe takes care of itself, thank you, by unfolding all the lies at a time of its own choosing.

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Here is what a fellow member on Basenotes reported, in a thread about Gucci’s new release for men, called Made to Measure:

Originally Posted by Steve D View Post

I read a magazine review of this the other day suggesting the styling and notes were a nod to the Tom Ford era but when I found it today and sampled, no, very weak and generic unfortunately on my skin. Pass on it. Since joining BN I’ve been educated by the fine noses here and discovered joys like Serge Lutens range so Gucci doesn’t make the grade anymore.

And here is what I almost said.  Yes – I almost responded with this.  However, instead of wasting my words now, I decided to send them into the future.  Nobody will pay attention.  Nobody will care.  But someday, when people are fighting over what Tom Ford really did in the fragrance world, there will still be this response.  And somebody with a Ph.D. in fragrance art will read and understand.

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Wow.  Thanks for reporting that.  Very much appreciated!  Now – stand back while I unload…..

No.  No.  A thousand times NO.  The styling and notes are a nod to the Tom Ford era?  REALLY?  There is no smoke-releasing plane which could write in big enough letters across the sky:  SPARE ME – to say what needs to be said to that.  I’m sorry, but the abuse on this just gets worse.  Please.  Gucci?  Don’t.  Don’t EVEN attempt to dig out of the hole with more.  Ugh-ugh.  Don’t.

Perhaps that is true on some imperceptible level, but if they dragged that statement out of a perfumer, I would hate to see what torture implements, or IFRA/PC abuses of the English and French languages were used.  “Styling and notes”?  Is that some way of saying “We can’t say the fragrance is out of the Tom Ford era, because it obviously isn’t, but if we consider the sartorial theme and call that ‘style’, and the fact that notes are pretty much bound to randomly overlap between fragrances from then and now, it won’t be a lie.”?  Good grief.

The Tom Ford era was characterized by perfumes that were unshrinking in both style and olfactory gravitas.  Next to ANYTHING from the Tom Ford era, Made to Measure is homeopathic.  Gucci by Gucci EDP and Gucci Guilty Intense just *might* be mistaken for Tom Ford creations, if you look at them sideways and not too hard.  But Made to Measure?  Maybe if he sold out and became a stockbroker meth addict with a band-aid on his bald spot where he fell down the stairs, wandering around New York in a trench coat and signing any papers that Gucci put in front of him.  THEN I could see it.

What are these people smoking?  Is there no honesty in fragrance any more?  UGH.  If this is a nod to the Tom Ford era, then the nod is one kid waving in the back of the Gucci limo as it drives away, and everybody else is flipping him the bird.

The only way this could POSSIBLY be a nod to Tom Ford, is that it has a sartorial theme, and Tom Ford – well – you know the rest.  Yes – I kinda get that.  But let’s be real.  We’re talking fragrance, not some very abstract piece of the brief and its interpretation.

This is NOT a bad fragrance.  I can handily recommend it to lots of people – friends and coworkers – who are NOT looking for strong, bold, Tom Ford-like fragrance statements.  I would even go so far as to say that it lives up to the marketing – this is a great fragrance for people who are serious about moving up in a modern world where you get ahead by not offending people.  But at its core it IS a rejection of EVERYTHING that Tom Ford does, has done, or likely will do.  Look at what he has done since leaving Gucci.  Everything is risky.  Everything is bold.  Nothing is subtle unless the subtlety is crystalline in character and unmistakably his.  We can lament some of his recent releases all we want, but by and large, he makes fragrances that serious connoisseurs of fragrance love, because they are REAL attempts to push the boundaries of fragrance style, and they NEVER shrink back into the safe zone unless he wants to say something bold IN THAT ZONE.

If Gucci PROMISES to get back to the Tom Ford days, then I will break my word and lie like a rug that this fragrance has Tom Ford written all over it.  LORD how I would love that to happen.  But COME ON.  We were not born yesterday.

Excuse my French. :evil:

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